I like doing DIY tasks however I’m not adequate with energy instruments to do any fancy work. I don’t dovetail and I’m unsure learn how to use a router.
So once I determined to construct a espresso station for our kitchen, I knew I’d need to discover a easy thought. I wished a reclaimed barn wooden and metal pipe look and I didn’t wish to spend greater than $100. After researching choices, I discovered a tutorial that I appreciated however wished to vary. So, I tailored the width and top and used a distinct kind of wooden.
After some sketching and trial and error, now we have a completed undertaking we love. I’m sharing the small print in case you’ve ever wished to construct one thing comparable. It’s straightforward! Promise. See the total tutorial beneath.
Additionally … to offer credit score the place credit score is due, I had some assistance on this undertaking from my dad and one in all my sons. I couldn’t have executed it with out the additional palms and double-checking on measuring!
Our Espresso Station Set-Up
Probably the most enjoyable half was adorning and stocking the bar as soon as I completed it. We’re very explicit about our espresso and have over time discovered a technique to make the proper cup of espresso (in our opinion). We now have:
- glass electrical kettle to boil water
- Eight-cup Chemex for espresso (and a reusable fabric filter)
- burr grinder for grinding the espresso
- Breville milk frother
- top quality natural espresso (present favourite)
I additionally discovered some ornamental gadgets that assist me preserve it organized:
Three small lined wire baskets that maintain espresso, tea, and provides.
A round wire basket on the underside shelf to carry towels and aprons.
What You Want:
- 5 2×6 boards of choice- I used untreated pine that price about $6 every at a neighborhood ironmongery store
- 4 24-inch pre-cut black metal three/Four inch pipes
- 4 12-inch pre-cut black metal three/Four inch pipe
- 4 Four-inch pre-cut black metal three/Four inch pipe (see be aware beneath earlier than ordering)
- One 36-inch pre-cut black metal three/Four inch pipe
- Six black three/Four inch pipe tee joints
- Eight three/Four inch black metal flooring flange
- 1.5 inch pocket screws
- Two 2-hole tube straps
- 32 1.5 inch wooden screws
- Pocket gap jig system
- Wooden glue
- A drill (that is the one I’ve)
Whole, all of the provides price me $113.94. (I already had a drill, wooden glue, and a pocket jig.)
What to Do:
The instructions will range primarily based on the dimensions desk/bar you need. Mine ended up being Four ft extensive, 17 inches deep, and about 40 inches tall (barely greater than counter top). You possibly can alter the identical idea to nearly any dimension desk, so range based on your wants.
Earlier than you start, sketch out the dimensions desk you need and double verify your whole provides and measurements. If you’d like a deeper desk (greater than 17 inches), you’ll must make the inner body a bit wider. Substitute the 4 inch pipes with no matter dimension you might want to work along with your dimension necessities. 4 inch was excellent for the 17-18 inch however a 24-30 inch would in all probability want six inch pipes, and many others.
Step 1: Lower the Boards
I solely had about Four ft on the wall the place I wished the desk, which made it straightforward. The two×6 boards got here in Eight-foot runs, so reduce in half I had ten Four-foot items. I solely wanted 9 of the 10 items. This fashion, every of the three layers was fabricated from three Four-foot 2×6 boards.
Step 2: Stain the Boards (If Staining) & Seal Them
I made a decision to stain at this stage, reasonably than attempt to stain after every shelf was assembled. This fashion, the stain wouldn’t pool and be darker between the boards. I put some tarps and outdated sheets on my flooring and stained indoors as a result of it was freezing exterior! (Notice: I used to be advantageous doing this inside, as a result of I used to be utilizing a non-toxic methodology of staining and weathering. I’d by no means do that with common stains or paints! That is the stain I used that makes use of metal wool, vinegar, and tea.
Notice: I additionally sealed the wooden with a pure sealant earlier than utilizing it. Because it was getting used for making sizzling liquids each day, this was essential. To maintain issues easy, I whipped up a pure furnishings wax from beeswax and olive oil and I’ll share that recipe quickly. Plain olive oil additionally appears to work effectively. I waited till the desk was assembled and gave the wooden a few week to completely dry and end altering coloration from the stain earlier than sealing.
Step three: Screw the Boards Collectively
Once more, I’m not the very best with energy instruments and I knew that attempting to screw boards collectively at an angle freehand was doomed to fail. On the suggestion of Dwell Merely, I used a pocket gap jig system to pre-drill and screw collectively the boards. I positioned one screw each 11-12 inches and used wooden glue earlier than screwing them collectively.
This produced three 16.5-inch by Four foot cabinets. (And if you happen to’re questioning, like I did for a very long time, why the maths doesn’t make sense? A 2×6 board is definitely 1.5×5.5 … I do know… unusual!)
Step Four: Assemble the Body
Subsequent, I assembled the H-shaped body out of the metal pipes. Notice that you will need to, as a lot as doable, screw all of the pipes collectively the identical variety of turns to maintain issues symmetrical.
To begin, I screwed on a “Tee” brace to every finish of the 36-inch lengthy pipe (the underside of the T). Then, I screwed a Four-inch pipe on to every finish of the Tee brace. At this stage it appear to be a really lengthy “I” and may lay flat on the ground.
Then, I added the only finish of a tee brace to every 4 inch pipe, however turned them to face the other way. This turns into the center a part of the body. When positioned on a flat floor, all 4 tee braces ought to contact the bottom and not one of the different pipes ought to.
The subsequent step relies on the peak desk you need and if you need the highest or backside shelf to be taller. I wished a shorter prime shelf so I might preserve baskets with tea and low. A bigger shelf on the underside gives a spot for linens and jars. To create this, I added a 12-inch pipe to the highest of every tee brace and a 24-inch pipe to the underside of every tee brace.
Lastly, to the highest of every of those 12 and 24-inch pipes I added a flange. These flanges get mounted to the underside and prime cabinets and kind the total body of the desk.
Step 5: Drill Holes within the Center Shelf
I quickly eliminated the highest 12-inch black pipes and flanges so I might mark the locations for the holes within the center shelf. TIP: Be sure all the pieces is degree and symmetrical earlier than doing this step!
Subsequent, I positioned the shelf on the center a part of the body and drew circles the place the holes wanted to be. The holes go on the underside of the shelf. To make the shelf lay flat, drill a 1.5 inch gap midway via the board first after which drill a 1.25 inch gap the remainder of the way in which.
The shelf ought to now match onto the holes and lay flat. Screw the 12-inch items with flanges again on.
Step 6: Connect Backside and High Cabinets
Now, use wooden screws to connect the underside and prime cabinets. I discovered the exhausting manner: degree as you go and you might must rotate the flanges to get all the pieces degree.
The final step is to connect the center shelf with a few tube straps on the below facet of the cabinets.
Step 7: Make Espresso (or Tea)
Voila! Espresso bar full. Make some espresso or tea and revel in. Alternately, this may be an ideal common bar for Dry Farm Wines and cocktails.
Have you ever ever constructed DIY furnishings to your dwelling? How did it prove?